In Focus: The Hosta

Original Images by The Hosta; Collage by Aylea Skye

‘In Focus’ is a new segment in which The VogueCIEL looks at emerging brands that have a focus on craftsmanship and ethics.

‘There is no escaping the reality that fashion is one of the world’s top polluting industries…buying pre-owned is an easy step toward being more sustainable and conscious as a customer’

-The Hosta

After working in the fashion industry for twenty years first as a stylist at fashion magazines and then as a product developer for brands such as COS, Kurt Geiger, Hunter and Nanushka, The Hosta founder, Danni Dance, decided to create her take her work within fashion down a more sustainable route than fashion production could ever offer; pre-loved pieces, specifically bags. In spring 2020 she launched The Hosta, an online store selling a curated collection of pre-loved, authenticated designer bags.

We spoke to Danni to learn more about her relationship with the fashion industry, sustainability and how she curates the collection.

Hi Danni! Tell us a bit about yourself.

I have worked in the fashion industry for 20 years, starting as a stylist for fashion magazines and then as a Product Developer for brands such as COS, Kurt Geiger, Hunter and Nanushka. I didn’t go to University so spent my early years grafting (working 7 days a week, interning for magazines during the week and then working as a personal shopper at the weekends). My first break into product development was at COS, a brand I still love today. I started there in 2006 and it was a crash course in brand development and creating a well-made product that was meant to last. COS were pioneers at this time, creating seasonless wardrobe staples that were not trend-led yet still affordable.

What was the inspiration behind The Hosta and how did you develop the brand?

I have been lucky enough to work for brands that care about sustainability, that it was a starting point in the process and not an afterthought or just a 12 piece ‘eco’ collection. But the constant newness and quick turnaround of collections in fashion have become ridiculous and the industry is still mostly completely linear. Fast fashion has hit the headlines recently exposing their unsustainable and unethical practices and it’s great that people are caring more and starting to question where clothes come from. But the luxury brands are just as guilty. High-end brands have an image to protect and to avoid constant sales or goods landing up in outlet stores they often destroy outdated stock. Burberry destroyed more than £28m worth of its fashion and cosmetic products in one year to guard against counterfeiting. I felt the only way to truly build a sustainable brand was to look at how to achieve a circular economy. Also on a personal level, after having my son I was finding the constant business travel hard. Lockdown forced a pause and this was eye-opening, I realised how much my home life and health had suffered by trying to do it all.  We expect women to work like they don’t have children and raise children as if they don’t work, this totally resonated with me, so I took the leap, quit and set up The Hosta.

You have extensive experience in bag development, did you ever consider starting a bag brand of new pieces?

I just feel there is too much product out there already, too much choice and constant newness and I didn’t want to add to this. During the pandemic, consumers have shifted their mindset. Many are no longer buying excessively and considering purchases more. Repeating outfits needs to be normalised again, shop like our grandparents did. Buy the best you can afford, rewear, repair and then sell on what you no longer need. The second-hand market is growing and a great way for people to shop sustainably but also to be able to afford brands that you may not be able to afford if these items were brand new. 

The collection is beautifully curated. How are the pieces acquired and authenticated?

Thank you, working as a Product Developer we would often buy vintage bags to use as inspiration for materials, shapes and materials and therefore I gained a global network of amazing dealers and collectors. At The Hosta we also buy from individuals offering a consignment service to sell your bags with us, as long as the bag fits with our aesthetic.  Prior to listing any items for sale on The-Hosta.com, each of our bags undergo a detailed authentication process, by two of our team, independently. This ensures there is no margin for error. Our detailed authentication process methodically inspects each and every item of the bag including the hardware, stitching, material, symmetry, label, code, stamp and overall craftsmanship. I have worked first hand with some of the factories that make these bags and another member of the team authenticates bags for a famous London auction house. We maintain an extremely high bar to verify each of our pieces as legitimate, comparing what we find with the respective designer’s established standards. We have zero-tolerance for inauthentic items. I tend to buy bags that I know will last, minimal details, hardwearing materials such as leather and nylons. Timeless forever pieces. 

Are there ever pieces that you want to keep? And do have any favourites?

I don’t yet own a classic Chanel double flap but I’m saving up for one, they are a no-brainer investment piece. Chanel have just increased their prices following the pandemic, the classic 2.55 model price has increased by up to 17%. According to OFV, the retail price of Chanel bags increase an average of 3% each year – that’s over double that of a standard ISA’s annual interest rate! 

How does ethics and sustainability affect the way you navigate the brand and how do you implement sustainable practices?

Our commitment extends beyond just the circular economy, and as part of our mission to further the cause of sustainability, we are constantly reviewing our practices. We dispatch all of our orders in plastic-free packaging made from recycled materials (this packaging can also be fully recycled). We don’t discount or participate in Black Friday sales. Fundamentally we believe that discounting is unsustainable as it encourages the purchase of items that people don’t need, and, like the ‘Make Friday Green Again‘ collective, we believe that this excessive consumption and overproduction contributes to climate change. Instead, we price each of our items fairly and encourage our customers to shop responsibly. We have fully offset our carbon footprint, including the footprint of the orders we dispatch and the operation of our website, through the planting of trees through Ecologi. The money donated also funds the world’s best climate crisis solutions, some that we have helped have included preserving prime Brazilian rainforest and Wind Energy farms in Andhra Pradesh, India. 

What tips would you give someone wanting to consume fashion more sustainably?

Buy less. Buy better (if you can). Just to be mindful, do you really need it, do you really LOVE it? Maybe add to the cart and think on it for a few days. If you have the time, see if you can buy the same piece pre-owned first. I totally recognise though that buying second hand is a privilege and not an option for many - plus size second hand is rare, second-hand prices are now more expensive and some just don’t have the time. We need to be mindful that for many buying second hand was not a choice but their only option, prices even in charity shops have increased. Life is tough right now and if you need to buy from Primark for your kids or for yourself because that’s all that you can afford or have available to you, then that’s totally fine. Shaming people for their choices never works. In general, the entire industry needs an overhaul, new laws need to be introduced to force accountability for all brands to ensure no-one is exploited to make our clothes and accessories. 

What are your plans for the future of The Hosta? Will you introduce ready-to-wear or accessories to the collection?

Right now I’m focused on sourcing even more beautiful bags and building on the stock that we have, especially leading up to the Christmas gifting period. I feel extremely fortunate to be working on The Hosta full time and I’m hugely thankful and grateful to all of our new and repeat customers as well as everyone who has offered support, likes and shares on Instagram. 

Follow The Hosta on Instagram @the_hosta

Shop The Hosta here.