Trend Dissection 0.9: Transcending Epoch
Resort collections are smoothly seeping into mainstream conversation about fashion. Almost as pervasive as the principal collections (Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter), Resort bares a sense of freedom that’s somewhat vetoed in other collections be it by the seasonal climate (Pre- Autumn/Winter) or significance (main seasons). There’s also a lot to be said for the transitional nature of Resort collections; they act as a bridge between a designers vision for one year to the next. Transitions were key to Resort 2018, but even more so was the imprecise theme of transcendence. Chanel looked to ancient Greece, Louis Vuitton took cues from Japan and Dior, the wild west, yet within this there was still a coherence of trends with some of the common denominators listed below.
Goddess like ensembles were prevalent on the Chanel runway but subtly permeated though many other collections. Gucci put a typically subversive touch on it with grudge riffs, while Jil Sander's was a subtle contemporary take, and Prada’s an amalgam of the elevated atheleisure trend.
Plaid, tweed and checks are too often associated with the mundane but this was distorted for Resort 2018. The textiles composed oversized suits at Louise Vuitton, Fendi and 3.1 Phillip Lim and modern-ly kitsch dresses at Alberta Ferretti and Thom Browne, resulting in pieces that are everything but humdrum.
A swift transition from plaid is the patent undertones of prairie living and America’s midwest. Most pronounced on the Christian Dior runway earthy hues, suede and leather, patchwork textiles and muted checks exude an homespun spirit. Rivets, cowboy hats, boots and sleek leather necklaces consummate the looks.
Every now and then designers make a statement with the colourless colour that is white. It seems to emanate some sort of post-modern tone when silhouettes and textiles are plain, or a delicate charm when diaphanous, lacey and fluid. Stark white ensembles were seen at Jonathon Simkhai, Altuzarra and Givenchy while soft hues enhanced the Grecian looks at Chanel and lift Christian Dior’s runway with a feminine feel.
Stripes come and go, year in year out, but for Resort 2018 stripes are truly characteristic. Yes, the classic navy or black and white still prevails but now is horizontal, tactile and bold. In contrast vivacious, juxtaposing hues were set against one another for a fresh, avant-garde feel. Most dominate Christopher Kane, Diane von Furstenburg and Tibi, but evident at a multitude of shows, it’s set to seep into the next fashion season.